I made my way to Koyasan yet again, getting off the bus and walking briskly to Kobo Daishi's resting place. On the way, I stopped and got the final stamp. From previous experience, I knew not to expect any reaction.
I went around the back way to Kobo Daishi's mausoleum and paid for two bundles of incense and two candles. I lit them and placed them on either side of him and said thank you to everyone I could think of who had helped me over the past two years to get here.I then sat back and ate half a rice cake and had a long drink of Aquarius. I put the remainder of the food and drink on the offering alter - my last Kai with KD!
I quietly sung one verse of Amazing Grace, said a last Gya Tei and left, waving as I rounded the corner. There were the usual hordes of tourists, worshippers, businessmen and I weaved my way between them back to the path with my completed scroll on my back, like a quiver of arrows. By now I just wanted to get away from it all. If the place had been deserted, I might have rolled around in it but my achievement felt diluted by the commercialism.
As I walked quickly along the path, tears were streaming down my face. A group were coming toward me - yet another bus Henro tour party - all kitted out in their new garb including packet creases and the bright eyes of a new adventure. With them was the usual monk. As we approached each other, the monk looked deep into my bloodshot swollen eyes, slowed and with a knowing smile, bowed his head deeply and reverently.
He knew.
Without realising I needed something I had just got it.
Still with tears and taking quick breaths through a tight throat, I left the grounds, then Koyasan, content.
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