May 12 cont...
I got off the bus where I was told to and started walking up the hill to Temple 44. The time was 4:45 so I looked at the map and found that Temple 45 is past 44 so I walked back down the hill to town. I decided I may as well go to 44 in the morning instead because the office was probably closed.
At one of the many information centres I had to stop at each day, a lovely girl dressed in traditional yukata helped me with not only directions and maps but by booking me into tonights hotel.
I stopped at a convenience store and asked directions to the hotel then asked where there might be an Udon restaurant but she had no idea.
I followed my instincts and found a little bar/restaurant further up on the other side of the street and went in.
I asked if they had Udon and the lady said Hai.
She got me a glass of water, towel and menu.
I said Wakarimasen and Begetarian. Meaning that I didn’t understand the menu but that I was a vegetarian. She didn’t understand so she got a young ‘dude’ to come out. I explained ‘no meat’. He said ‘Ah – vegetables’ (one hand) ‘Udon’ other hand and imitated a frying pan. I said Hai Hai! with thumbs up.
As I sat there, I could tell everyone sitting around smoking and drinking (aka – the locals) were talking and laughing about me and, by now, I had had two weeks of it so I couldn’t help but feel affected and my spirits started sinking.
The lady bought out my food and it had meat in it. I said Gomen nasai – sorry, and pointed to the vegetables and did the OK sign, pointed to the meat and did the No sign (making a cross with both hands). They still didn’t get it!
Eventually one of the locals at the bar said exactly what I had said ‘no meat’ and they all ahsoed.
After that I heard Eigo ga and Begetarian with gales of laughter so by now I couldn’t help the tears – they streamed down. Luckily I was at the end of the counter so I was able to look out the small window and discretely wipe them away.
I ordered myself a 'Halfway' Sake when my non meat version arrived and that got them going even more. My throat felt like it would close at the first mouthful and I almost walked out.
I didn’t want anything to ruin my halfway celebration so I sucked it up, ate my dinner and while drinking my sake I drew a diagram.
It showed a little Temple drawing with “Hajimemasu” (start) under it then Ichi Ban (Temple One) under that then a line to the next little Temple drawing and Hambun (half) with Yon Ju Yon (Temple 44) with an arrow down from that and the word Sake then another arrow down from that and the word Gampai!! (cheers) then, finally another line to a third little Temple drawing with ‘Owarasemasu’ (finish) and Hachi Ju Hachi Ban (Temple 88).
As I was drawing, I looked up and saw the Dude trying to give a piece of paper to his fellow Dude worker, then Dude two pushed it back at him. Dude one pushed it back at Dude two again and pointed at me then Dude two pushed it back again disgustedly – You do it!
I finished my diagram, skulled the last of my sake and said Ikura desu ka – how much? Dude one came up with the amount written down. I gave him the drawing and 10,000 yen. He looked at the drawing, looked at me then said Ah so!!
As he was getting my change, the others were asking him what I had given him. He gave me my change then Dude two excitedly leant over the counter and gave me a Chuppa Chup.
I left so they could spend the rest of the night rolling around in the weeks excitement.
TEXTS…
EL to SMG: I’m so sick of being the butt of jokes and being laughed about. I’m in a bar/rest with locals and they’ve had a great time – PSBs! (Poor Sad Bastards) I couldn’t stop tears
SMG to EL: That’s no good, maybe peoples poss natural slight xenophobia. As they haven’t met you before its unlikely to be personal, next week it’ll be someone else.
EL to SMG: Thanks S. Its more that I wouldn’t mind a laugh too. Over it now.
SMG to EL: Ok. What about…Q: What did one post modern artist say to the other post modern artist? A: Would you like fries with that burger? Or
Man goes to psychiatrist wearing gladwrap underpants. Doctor says ‘I can clearly see your nuts’
EL to SMG: Sooo laughing out loud! And so much funnier that ‘Mimasu orcashi gaijin’ (spot the crazy foreigner) Thanks S – just the prescription…
SMG always seemed to make everything ok...
2 comments:
I'm being so swept along in the story- you've posted heaps since I last looked... but I just want to say that I'm appreciating what an excellent thing it was for you to have your phone with you. The photos are such good quality that until today I didn't believe they were phone pix. And I'm really getting a sense of how important texting is to your state of mind, sense of connection. Yay for SMG's jokes!
Thank you so much for desribing your journey! I stayed q few months in Kyoto and loved the city, but never got over being stared at and people making conversation of me, even when I was just sitting in a cafe minding my own business. And Kyoto is considered to be a very international city, with tons of tourists and such. But people still stare...
Being a minority in Shikoku must be even harder :(. Every place and every trip has its good and bad points I suppose.
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